OK. Here is a solid description of how to convert your 2007 Rise bridle to the 2008 set-up.

If these instructions do not make sense to you or if you lack confidence in your ability to make these changes please do not attempt the mod! Ocean Rodeo will be shipping 2007 Front Pulley Mod kits by the end of September which will include all the parts you need in the exact dimensions and will take roughly 1-2 minutes per kite to apply. Again, make the decission, can you, or can you not, wait 3 - 4 weeks for a simple to apply mod?

NOTE: See my posting at bottom - as of September 25th, 2007 the kits have arrived and are available for roughly $30 retail. Please contact a local shop to order one of these kits to avoid the hassle below.

Ok, for the brave at heart -> here we go!

You will need:
- Scissors
- 2 Stopper Balls with pre-drilled hole in center
- 1 Pair of Kook Proof connectors
- Black magic marker
- 1 to 2 beers
- 1-1.5 hours of your life

Abstract
Your 2007 Rise shipped with a bridle set-up as shown below. In a very basic sense all we are going to do to your kite is this:
- remove the E Bridle line
- remove the pulley from your kite
- change the length of the F pulley line and attach it to the kite in a different way.

(click on any image to open a larger view)

Here’s your 07 Rise bridle now

Here’s the 08 Rise bridle set-up

Step 1 - Break It Down
- Remove the Pulley (F) Line from its attachment to both the E and G lines.
- Remove the Pulley from the Kite
- Remove the Pulley Connector from the Pulley. Set this aside to use later to attach the Pulley Line to the kite.
- Remove Bridle Line E from Bridle Lines C and D. Set E aside, you won’t need it.
- Cut the end of Pulley Line F, at the end with knots and not the end with the loop, as close to the last knot as possible to allow for the Pulley to easily be removed from the Pulley Line (F)

Image of Pulley Connector Cable - To be used later to attach Pulley Line to Kite

Step 2 - Make the New Pulley Line
- You are going to make a new length of Pulley Line from the existing Pulley Line.
- The Line’s measurements have been broken down into 2 sections, X and Y. Both section’s are measured inclusive of the loops on their ends used to attach the line to the bridle and kite.
- Below is a diagram of the new Pulley Line showing sections X and Y as well as the relative placement of the pulley on the line and how it attachs to the kite (we’ll get to that in a second)
- Also below is a chart which shows you the length each section of the new Pulley Line must be. Note that this measurement takes into account the length of the line inclusive of the loops at its end and the knot and stopper in the middle.

Pulley Line with X and Y

Pulley Line Size Chart

- Your old Pulley Line should now have on it one clean sewn end with a loop sewn into it and another cut end where the knots used to be.
- Take its entire length and do a Loop-to-Loop connection with both Bridle line C and Bridle line D by passing the Pulley Line loop through their respective loops and pulling the entire line through itself to attach.
- With the Pulley Line now attached to the ends of C and D pass the pulley onto the Pulley Line.
- Measure the length for section X and mark it with a black marker.
- Pass the pre-drilled stopper ball onto the Pulley Line and down to the marked section of the Pulley Line.
- Tie a knot in the Pulley Line such that the stopper ball sits right on the edge of the black mark and allows the pulley to travel the full length of the measured length for section X. Note: Be sure to tie a sufficient knot, or knots, to ensure the stopper ball will not pop over the knot!

Step 3 - Make Section Y and attach to Kite

- Section Y’s length is measured from the stopper ball to the kite. Section Y’s length is inclusive of the end loop you will tie and the old pulley connector you will use to connect it to the kite!
- Attach the Pulley Connector Line you removed above to the furthest back of the 2 front attachment points of the kite such that you can larks head a connection off of it (loop through sewn webbing, pass through itself)
- Measure the length of this connector from the kite. This length must be factored into the total length for section Y
- Measure the length you need for the Y section of the Pulley Line and mark this length with a marker. Remember to take into account the length of the attachment point (above) that you will larks head this line to. The combined length of Section Y and this attachment point must equal the length set out for Y in the chart above.
- Tie a loop in the end of section Y using an overhand knot such that the apex of the loop ends at the length required for section Y.
- Larks head connect section Y to the connector.

Step 4 - Set up the Pulley
- Use your extra set of Kook Proof Connectors to loop through the pulley to allow for your front lines to be attached to this floating pulley.

Step 5 - Check your G Line Length
- Most Rise kites shipped with a standard G Line Length, some had shorter lengths.
- Check your G Line length against the chart above.
- If your G Line is shorter than need be either make an extension out of Q line or make a whole new length of G line based on the measurements above.

You’re Done! Things should look like this when you are done, with the rear line attachments in the back ground and front line attachments on the floating pulley in the foreground.

One Final Note
- Take the time to also run your lines out and check their length. With the trim line fully extended and the chicken loop tight against the bar the 4 lines should all be the same length.
- This new set-up will be prone to back flying in light wind if your front lines are stretched out by even 2-3”

Remember! If you are not comfortable with this modification wait 3 weeks! Shipping by the end of September will be 2007 Front Line Pulley Mod Kits for 2007 Rise Kites. They will include:
- Replacement Pulley Line with replacement Pulley and Kook Proof Connector installed
- Replacement G Rear Line
- Extra Kook Proof Connectors to attach Pully Line to kite.
- Easy to follow instructions
estimated total time for modification, under 2 minutes.

John Z - OR

Phewwww…..I’ll be waiting for the mod. kit then :!:
(That’s if I decide to change it!)

done it. took me 10 mins….

I’ll wait for the mod kit as well! But what will the effect be, in what way will it affect the flying of my Rise 12m ‘07? I allready love the way it depowers but powers up when your speed increases and never stops pulling faster even if kiters on a bigger kite are already behind you.
Also I love the way you can fly the kite straight through the power zone pushing the bar away without flying off or even being dragged along.
I would, however, like the steering to be a bit faster and more direct. Is this mod going to do that for me by any chance?

JohnZ and other OR guys:

Make sure the retrofit pulleys have a loop with some play in it on the pulley connection. 

Now that OR is going with his “pulley on the pigtail” configuration like Cabrinha and Slingshot, those manufacturers have been having problems when they larkshead the connector directly to the pulley.  The larkshead ends up off to the side and it pulls on the pulley at an angle, causing the bridle line to chafe on the pulley block.  The result is a rapidly wearing bridle line and also the line starts to get “twists” in it.  There is a thread on kiteforum discussing it and showing photos and the mod Cabrinha put out to address this issue and I also saw a Slingshot Link on the beach yesterday that had this same problem due to the pulley connection being too tight.

Basically, you need a loop with some play in it in the connection so the pulley can “self center”.

8) Thanks John…I’m always willing to purchase O.R.‘s developing products knowing you guys share the knowledge/mods as our sport evolves…Good times… 8)

dont be afraid to do it its easy as pie any UK guys i doubt that we’ll get kits for a bloody age so just do it yourself! its pretty straightforward.. the instructions make it sound mor ecomplicated than it is. all your doing is cutting a bit off one end of the line so you can get the pulley off… then putting the end with the loop on the bridle, putting the pulley on again, tying a knot in a specified place and then attatching the other end to one of the two attatchments where the pulley used to go. its pretty quick. you dont need the stopper ball either as the knot tied is easily too big to pull through the pulley.

heres some pics of it done..



you end up with a little pigtail which loops onto the adjustable attatchments which you can larkshead the pully line to to easily change the power setting.

my pully line was really wearing and needed changing anyways so i saw this as a good time to try the mod.. im going to fit a new pully line out of sleeved dyneema so it doesnt wear as quickly. also i have some ronstan micro ballbearing blocks lying about which im putting on instead of the annoying squeaky pulleys on it now. should be pimp.

@ harry, please note that when the line is under tension the knot will thighten up and become smaller. Then it can go through the pulley and when it dus you might be left with zero depower. My advice is to at least add something to it so this will never happen.

O.R. would not require a stopper if it was not needed !!! 8)

OK I have made the PBK mod to my Rise is there going to be much of a difference between that mod and this one in the kites persormance as I find the kite is working great with the PBK modification, is the pulley doing something different.

Jason

If the PBK mod is working great for you then I would stick with it. The difference is in the way the kite feels. However, you do get more depower out of the kite with the 08 mod using the pulley.

You can do the 08 mod without the stopper balls and extra kook proof connectors in a pinch of you have to. It’s not the prettiest but you can use waterproof electrical tape to increase the size of the stopper knots you tie in the line so it won’t slip through the pulley. You can make the kook proof connectors out of the scrap line you cut off the pulley line. Follow the steps and my suggestions will make sense.

Cheers,

Evan

The 2008 Bridle is awesome - here is the review I posted in a couple threads I started or contributed to:

12M Rise - 2008 BRIDLE REVIEW - KILLER!
Rode with the new bridle today in 15-22 mph, kite was PERFECT.  All the bridle issues have been solved for me.  No tip distort, no bar pressure, awesome steering and quickness (used slow setting), AWESOME depower.

Thanks OR, back to loving me RISE!

BTW, IMO for those of you who are interested in a comparison, the kite is way more stable, predictable and easier to depower with the 2008 bridle vs the PBK mod (which has no active pulley at all).  Not saying there’s anything wrong with PBK, if you like it that’s awesome, but I was MUCH more comfortable with the pulley in the system as on the 2008 bridle..

A few notes on my 14 M RISE ‘mod’ experience: It turns out I have one of the 10% production kites that have short bridles. Therefore I added 12.5” to the rear attachment to meet the required length. In addition I DID NOT CUT the knots off I merely untied them, used figure 8’s instead of stopper balls, put an ‘8’ knot @ the leading edge & tied on to the tag line with a reef knot. No line to spare !!! & of course now the kits have arrived @ the O.R. warehouse here in Saanichton. 8)... Test fight: 7 knots cruising with fast turning even on ‘slow setting’ (more stable/light air)...Thanks O.R. !!!

The kits have arrived. Please contact your local shop to order an easily applied kit.

The kit includes:

- New Front Line Pulley Line with Pulley installed
- 8 x kook proof connectors to attach to the 4 different bridle attachment points on each side of the kite. (This will allow you to easily move the bridle around for various flying characteristics )
- Instructions

It can be applied in under 5 minutes and allows you to keep your current set-up incase you wish to convert back to the original settings.

Finally, we had already had the kits put into production when Joeag helpfully pointed this information (below) out. So, when you get your kits look to make the simple conversion he is talking about. With the kits all pre-made there is little chance we will open each one up to do this!

[quote author=“joeag”]JohnZ and other OR guys:

Make sure the retrofit pulleys have a loop with some play in it on the pulley connection. 

Now that OR is going with his “pulley on the pigtail” configuration like Cabrinha and Slingshot, those manufacturers have been having problems when they larkshead the connector directly to the pulley.  The larkshead ends up off to the side and it pulls on the pulley at an angle, causing the bridle line to chafe on the pulley block.  The result is a rapidly wearing bridle line and also the line starts to get “twists” in it.  There is a thread on kiteforum discussing it and showing photos and the mod Cabrinha put out to address this issue and I also saw a Slingshot Link on the beach yesterday that had this same problem due to the pulley connection being too tight.

Basically, you need a loop with some play in it in the connection so the pulley can “self center”.

The long and short of what he is saying is that the connector attached to the pulley should be tied to the pulley in a loop and not pulled through itself as this causes the load to be on one side and to wear the line out faster. Simply remove the loop, un tie it and re-tie it, as below, to the pulley.

JZ

received the 08 bridal upgrade for my buddies 07 rise - Thanks - but on my 08 rise venturi bridal it has a knot on either end to stop the pulley - on this upgrade it does not - just on the knot to the larks head. should that be the case or do i need to put one on the bridal upgrade?