My shorter version on my 9m One flew just as well as Wisha’s longer version did on my 12m. I’ve scaled my shorter version down for my 7m One and up for my 12. After about 5 sessions on my 9m, and one 25 – 35 knot day on the 7m ( none on the 12m yet ), with lots of kite crashes after blown jumps and testing leash releases to both front lines and single front line, I haven’t had any bridle-wingtip snags. So time to let others try it.

It is very easy to do, requires only 4 pulleys, pigtails for the pulleys, and four lengths of leader line rope, like factory bridle ‘H’ line. Here’s a sketch, the new V-lines & pulleys are shown in red. Everything else is just a re-arrangement of existing factory bridle lines.

Here are some pictures of my modified 9m flying. First shot the kite and lines are in focus, but the viewing angle makes the bridle proportions hard to see.

In the second shot, you can make out the bridle, but sorry, lousy focus.

I’ll post the V-line lengths next.  If you decide to modify your One, please consider that this bridle modification has not been widely tested. To date, only 3 One riders ( Wisha, Noo Noo, and myself ) have modified One bridles and posted results.

If you modify your bridle, TEST IT IN LIGHT, STEADY WIND (  10 – 14 knots ) AT A VERY SAFE LOCATION, with tons of space, and no hard objects or spectators downwind. I’d also recommend setting up your bar ( at least temporarily ) to leash to single front line, so that you can fully depower the kite if needed.

Thanks for the help

I am going to translate the steps first and after you can see the pictures:
1.Take out knots to dismount the trim



2.Sand the holes to aloww and easier way in and out of the rope.Be careful to prevent both holes from comunicating

3.Sand the way out of the rope

4.sand the way in of the rope

5.This is optional but have undressed the pulley because it added some more friction but it also protects from the sand so its up to you..

Once again I hope anybody gets ungry with me for this, but we have tried everything.
Also I have to say the kites are just awesome,everyboy is stoke with them.
Have fun!

It was the stem from the leading edge bladder, going to the last strut.

The kite was sitting on the sand, as I was winding up the lines. The odd thing is, I couldn’t find the stem. Not clamped into the strut tubing( little plastic black clamp still in place), or in/on the main bladder. Poof…gone!

Anyway it was a used kite, so no warranty, but I wonder can this be repaired, if yes, where( I’m in the lower mainland), or do I need to replace the whole leading edge bladder?

Thanks very much for your help.

George

Doh…I had a thought, just as I finished typing the above. A law of physics popped into my head, you know the one where matter remains constant in the universe, or something.

Anyway went out and fumbled around with the leading edge some more, and found the stem still there appearing to be attached to the bladder! I guess the black clamp released the stem and it just popped back inside the leading edge.

I’ll pump it up, to ensure no damage. Now my thought is, why did it release like that? Are the little black clamps not strong enough, or was it pumped up too much…my pump said 8-9lbs! I’ll check it.

That would suck if I was on the water.

Sorry about that long post…I’ll leave it in case a knob like me has the same thing happen…So…How about the Red Wings this year…?

I clicked on the link for the 2010 Rise manual, but have noticed that the one listed seems to be a general SLE kite manual only, rather than a specific 2010 model version.

I would like to make an adjustment to add more bar pressure. The manual listed shows 4 settings but the 2010 kite does not seem to have these connection points.

Kindly provide a 2010 Rise specific manual and/or the the adjustments instructions.

Any tips on getting more boost would be appreciated.  Could manage 7-10m on my Core GT but only 3-4 on the 2010 Rise.

My baby is hurt:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3925685&l=3a9df86c7f&id=581559602

Happened last Sunday out of the blue, board didn’t get any noticeable knocks or bangs (shes very clean). I was cruising and notice that something wasn’t right…. I stopped up and was nearly brought to tears

I’ve had the board since January but only been using since March/April as I’m only kitesurfing for 6 months….  love the Mako!

I’m hoping that this is covered by warranty? I purchased the board from http://www.kingofwatersports.com (UK). Do I return it to them in the UK or have to you a Mako representative in Ireland that could have a look at it?

Cheers
Ivan

What is the best method to seal the board deck now that it’s repainted?  I bought a Epoxy Clear Coat kit from West Marine, but before we move forward I’m seeking advise.  Is this the best way to seal the board deck?  Any tips on how to best handle Epoxy?  Should I consider other methods?

Thanks in advance for any and all advise!

Sorry for the title but is true. I don’t know how a company like Ocean Rodeo can take to the market a product so dangerous. Do you not believe me? That what’s happening:

- It autoeject all the time
- It’s IMPOSIBLE to depower. I tried all. If the secure of the chicken loop is not set (to ride unhooked) you better not try at all or you will end with the kite full power unhooked and with only one hand in the bar. HEEEEEELLLPPPPP

Please Ocean Rodeo Listen to you customers. I saw other topic that your people is saying that is no problem at all. I like the brand very much but this bar is the worst product Ocean Rodeo released.

Please rebuild the chicken loop and send the spare parts for all your clients or your brand will suffer.