Thx.

i got an problem with my 3.0 bar for the diablo.
my depower koort break 1 day ago so now i need to replace it.

her is the problem.
i take out the old line from the chicken loop.
but now its inpossoble to put an new 1 inside.
can some 1 tell me how to make this easyer for me ?

sorry for my bad english btw.

thanks andre

I have a 2008 OR SLE bar (40cm width) with broken lines. I’m currently in Spain and need some replacement lines.

Questions:
1) Do I need the exact lines for this exact bar? Meaning do year and/or width have to match?
2) How much will they approximately cost?
3) Can someone recommend a good dealer in Spain or close-by in Europe?

Thanks

-Stefan

My shorter version on my 9m One flew just as well as Wisha’s longer version did on my 12m. I’ve scaled my shorter version down for my 7m One and up for my 12. After about 5 sessions on my 9m, and one 25 – 35 knot day on the 7m ( none on the 12m yet ), with lots of kite crashes after blown jumps and testing leash releases to both front lines and single front line, I haven’t had any bridle-wingtip snags. So time to let others try it.

It is very easy to do, requires only 4 pulleys, pigtails for the pulleys, and four lengths of leader line rope, like factory bridle ‘H’ line. Here’s a sketch, the new V-lines & pulleys are shown in red. Everything else is just a re-arrangement of existing factory bridle lines.

Here are some pictures of my modified 9m flying. First shot the kite and lines are in focus, but the viewing angle makes the bridle proportions hard to see.

In the second shot, you can make out the bridle, but sorry, lousy focus.

I’ll post the V-line lengths next.  If you decide to modify your One, please consider that this bridle modification has not been widely tested. To date, only 3 One riders ( Wisha, Noo Noo, and myself ) have modified One bridles and posted results.

If you modify your bridle, TEST IT IN LIGHT, STEADY WIND (  10 – 14 knots ) AT A VERY SAFE LOCATION, with tons of space, and no hard objects or spectators downwind. I’d also recommend setting up your bar ( at least temporarily ) to leash to single front line, so that you can fully depower the kite if needed.

I finally had to replace the LE bladder on my 09 Rise 10m. I never took pics of the removal process but I figured hell… why not do it for the insertion. Essentially the process is pretty much reversed anyways except the installation requires confidence and greater attention to detail.

First off IMO Airtimekite.com is the only place to get your bladder replacement parts or to send hefty repairs you’re not comfortable doing yourself. They have a sizing chart that takes all the guess work out of identifying most brand’s measurements. Their products are bomber and the instructions are spot on, but ... there are a few other tips to make it run even smoother. Come to think of it I never even asked OR for replacement parts… hmmm???

Ref 1: http://oceanrodeo.com/images/uploads/kiting/pdf/SLE_kite_manual.pdf (Page 20 - 25)
Ref 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouiZF_aHsxk

So… 1.) grab a beer or more if you have a strong bladder (hehe) and prepare to become one with your kite.

2.) Clean your work surface thoroughly. The Airtime website says to layout and center your old bladder on top of the new one and mark for valve placement. I did that and also compared it to the actual LE valve holes for pinpoint accuracy in case the old bladder was botched (mine was).

3.) Confidently… mark > cut > clean > peel > stick and press your new valves into position.

4.) Roll up your crappy bladder into a pillow and take an afternoon siesta. Copious amounts of nature’s sweet nectar will help you achieve this without fail. Also, why limit yourself to one brand of cerveza? Experiment and collect all the pretty coloured cans!

5.) After you’ve woken up, grab your new bladder plugging the valves and toss it into a new garbage bag, then dump a wack of talcum pow into the mix. Seal and shake. This will act as lube to help the bladder move effortlessly through the LE chamber.

6.) Grab some masking/painters tape and roll a wad around the bladder’s tip. I strongly do not recommend tying off your pull line directly to the bladder. This kind of tape will protect the bladder from nasty pinches and can be easily removed. Do not use duct tape. That stuff is for pickup trucks, houses and submarines.

7.) Get a friend or weigh down your kite with a 600W electric skateboard, align the bladder so it’ll travel smoothly without twisting then gently pull the bladder back into the LE lining up the valves with their openings.

8.) Do the other side ...

9.) Size up the bladder by inverting any leftovers back inside themselves. I used the smooth handle of a screwdriver to get the depth I needed. Once satisfied, close the LE tube ends with the Velcro.

10.) Inflate the LE looking for signs of proper seating, twists or wrinkling. Do not fully inflate unless you’re certain everything is A-OK. Finally, deflate and reattach one pump tubing and clamps. Re-inflate if required.

Be sure to consult multiple references (as mentioned above) and with any luck your LE bladder replacement will go as smoothly as mine did.

Thanks OR and Airtime!

Whew, I need a beer!

So I was wondering if there was any kook proof standard existing in the world and if adhering to such a standard would make your SLE bar much more acceptable for use on other brand kites.

kind regards
Kirk